Dynel sheathing

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Wooden Boat Fittings

Dynel sheathing

Postby Wooden Boat Fittings » Thu April 27th, 2006, 2:43 pm

Copied from the old board
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« Thread Started on 1/22/04 at 10:14 »
I note these two comments from the earlier forum --

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Gooday from Downunder. I am looking into the deep pit of Dynel Sheating a Plywood Sail boat. Unfortunately, my time is such that I will have to pay others to perform this task. I confess to not knowing much about it ? Whether the Hull can be attempted without the deckplate etc ??? What are the best methods and why ??? And of course to avoid these Pitfalls now that I do own a boat etc... Would be grateful to anyone who can assist. Cheers Steven ~ Replies to info@ship2shore.com.au
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Hello Steven, I am not 100% certain on 'Dynel', but we have had success and failures with sheathing. GRP and glass cloth is not recommended, even from new. It gets osmosis and water seeps in between the layers.
Recorcinol glue and woven glass cloth has been good. Some only sheathed up to a few inches above the WL and it stayed intact forever! Others brought it up to deck level, but this means a lot of filler to get smooth topsides.
Best today is Epoxy with glass or nylon cloth, (Dynel?),normally just beneath the WL and maybe on deck. The topsides and rest of boat simply given several coats of epoxy. You must sand back to clean wood first, I did it on ply that had been painted, to remove all traces of contaminate, worked well on 'Fiddler's Green' for 15 years now! You must also ensure the cloth you use is compatible with the epoxy. Ask the manufacturer that one. Hope this helps.
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I have to report that Sanderling's deck (which includes cabintop) and co ckpit were sheathed with Dynel and epoxy when she was built thirty years ago, and that apart from some mechanical damage with screws that some nong had put in the deck pulling out under load, it's still in perfect condition.

Mike

Edited to add -- I don't believe this! I had to write co ckpit like that because when I wrote it properly the board posted it as "thingypit." It's incredible....

« Reply #1 on 1/23/04 at 21:22 » [Quote] [Modify] [Delete]
I have finally managed to edit the (default) banned words list. No more will we jump into the thingypit.

Pity really, was kinda funny.

Cockpit, Cockpit, Cockpit, Cockpit, Cockpit, Cockpit, Cockpit,

Cock up cock a doodle do and so on.


Barry

« Reply #2 on 1/25/04 at 5:19 » [Quote] [Modify] [Delete]
;D :D ;D
.

« Reply #3 on 1/30/04 at 17:59 » [Quote] [Modify] [Delete]
Sheathing with Dynel is really as easy as getting drunk. It is not just used for the underwater parts of the hull, but for the whole hull [and deck too, if you wish for a canvassed deck. The topsides can cop a fair bit of abrasion from jetties, tenders, other boats, etc. I used a two-part process because I was uncertain of my own abilities at the time. I rolled epoxy on to the upturned bare wood hull and laid the Dynel from keel to gunwale. I patted the Dynel down onto the epoxy to stick it in place, removing wrinkles where necessary. When that epoxy had cured, I came back and filled in with a talc-thickened epoxy, spread by squeegee. This part goes through epoxy like there's no tomorrow! After that its just the usual sanding and painting. The epoxy gives a good base for 2-part paints if you want to go that way.
David

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Fiddler's Green
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Postby Fiddler's Green » Mon May 8th, 2006, 9:23 pm

Well done for salvaging and posting these Mike, bet there are a few more that could do with being resurected....

cheers,
John
Proud owner and builder of 'Fiddler's Green'


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